If one pays attention, they’ll discover that each dish carries a story, a narrative that extends beyond time and geography. Few dishes in the culinary world have a more extended and more fascinating history than the renowned Biryani.
Tracing its origins to Persia, modern-day Iran, the term “Biryani” derives from the Persian word “Birian,” meaning “fried rice.” However, the journey of how it came to shape the cuisine of the Indian subcontinent remains an intriguing question.
One account of the dish’s origin suggests that Timur, the Turk-Mongol conqueror, brought a precursor to Biryani with him when he reached the borders of India in 1398. It is said that a clay pot filled with rice, spices, and whatever meats were available was buried in a heated pit, later unearthed and served to Timur’s troops as their sustenance during battle campaigns. Another widely accepted story revolves around Shah Jahan’s queen, Mumtaz Mahal (1593-1631), who, upon visiting army barracks, noticed malnourished troops. At Shah Jahan’s request, the chef concocted a special dish with a balance of nutrients, leading to the creation of Biryani—a complete meal with meat, aromatic spices, and fried rice, all in one dish. While the dish retains its Persian influence, the extent to which Biryani is a product of subcontinental or Persian cuisine remains a topic of debate.
Tamil literature mentions “Onn Soru” as far back as 2 AD, where “Onn” in Tamil refers to meat and “Soru” to fried rice. This dish bears resemblance to Biryani, an amalgamation of flavors with rice, ghee, meat, turmeric, coriander, pepper, and bay leaf, believed to be a post-war celebration meal for soldiers by the King. It is also plausible that South Indian chefs prepared ‘Onn Soru’ for mercenaries who later named it “Biryani.”
Biryani’s popularity has endured from the Nawabs of Lucknow to the Nizams of Hyderabad. While its origin remains a mystery, Pakistanis have tirelessly perfected and diversified every variation of this beloved dish. From Angara Biryani to Fragrant Basmati Rice Biryani, Pakistani Biryani may look different from Mumtaz Mahal’s or Tamil Biryani, but the fundamental spices remain at its core. Biryani’s journey has transcended borders and time, firmly establishing itself in Pakistani cuisine. So, the next time you savor a plate of Biryani, consider its rich history and its impact on generations that came before you.”